Page 2 - Textile Europe 2017
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Certifications/Labels/Textile Associations/Initiatives of




       PRODUCT-RELATED LABELS AND CERTIFICATIONS            child labour, forced labour, collective bargaining, health, safety, environment and payment.
                                                            The FLA is controlling the implementation of the code of conduct on a yearly basis.  Moreo-
                                                            ver, the companies are supported by guidance and benchmarking is used for further impro-
                 EN ISO 20471:
                                                            vements. It is expected that the companies are taking steps to improve, as long as standards
                                                            are not fulfilled. The successful verification is valid for 2-3 years.
                 Warning protection standard to certificate clothing, worn at work in
                 situations at high risk to be overlooked. The articles are divided into three
                 different categories, according to the permitted driving speeds (category
                 1: (≤ 30km/h (Klasse 1), 31-60km/h (Klasse 2), > 60km/h (Klasse 3)), as
                 well as according to the amount of used fluorescent background material
                                                                        Fair Wear Foundation:
                 and reflective material, which are necessary for 360° visibility day and
       night. The classification can also be achieved by combining different articles, e.g. combining a
                                                                        Fair Wear Foundation is an independent, non-profit organisation that
       jacket and a trouser. The overall surface of logos needs to be subtracted from the visible sur-
       face. Therefore it is necessary to check out before finishing, that the articles reach the given   works with companies and factories to improve labour conditions for
                                                                        garment workers. The base of the collaboration between FWF and a
       minimum standards in order to keep the obligated high visibility zones big enough.
                                                                        member is the Code of Labour Practices. It includes the following 8 sta-
       The clothes are marked with the pictogram, where instead of the “x”, the applying category
       is filled in.                                                     tements: employment is freely chosen, no discrimination in employment,
                                                            no child labour, freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining, payment of a
                                                            living wage, no excessive working hours, safe and healthy working conditions, legally binding
                                                            employment relationships. These standards are based on the ILO core labour standards and
                                                            the UN Declaration of Human Rights. The use of the label on clothes is only allowed, if the
               FAIRTRADE certified cotton:
                                                            company is integrating at least 90% of the production volume in the Monitoring System
                                                            and as a consequence is reaching the score of 75+ in the benchmarking brand performance
               You can find this label on your clothes. FLO-CERT GmbH is certificating this
               quality seal which is dealing with the production of cotton. Manufacturers  check. FWF examines and rates its members and subsequently reports the results officially. If
                                                            necessary, the companies have to improve their standards and document the process.
               have to pay at least a cost covering price to their farmers as well as an addi-
               tional bonus for infrastructure, education and social affairs. The decision for
               the use of this extra money is taken collectively by the farmers. This additional
       bonus is often used to change production to organic farming. If desired, buyers have to pay a
       part of the harvest in advance and both sides have to focus on stable and long term trade re-
       lationships. The certification authority is controlling the farmers that have to join together in
                                                                      SA 8000:
       cooperations to make decisions about the bonus they receive. They have to keep the agreed
       social (improvement of working conditions according to the ILO guidelines), economical (flow
                                                                      SAI was founded in 1989 and has established criteria, which all certificated
       of goods and money) and environmental (environment and climate protection) conditions.
                                                                      SAI companies have to fulfil to receive the certification. This criteria list is
                                                                      based on the UN Declaration of Human Rights, conventions of the ILO,
                                                                      UN and national law, and spans industry and corporate codes to create a
                                                                      common language to measure social performance.  All decisions must be
                                                                      taken by companies, governments, trade unions and NGOs together. Each
                                                                      production facility needs its own certification, which lasts for 3 years. This
                     Oeko-Tex Standard 100:
                                                            certification is valid across all industrial sectors regardless of the size or other critical factors.
                                                            The list is including the following topics: child labour, forced or compulsory labour, health and
                     The use of that product seal in clothes ensures the testing in all
                     steps of production on substances prohibited, or regulated by law,   safety, freedom of association and right to collective bargaining, discrimination, disciplinary
                                                            practices, working hours, remuneration and management system.
                     health concerning substances and also ensures health parameters.
                     All components of the final product (sewing cotton, buttons, etc.)
       have to comply with the basic limit values. Depending on the extent of skin contact, the
       products are divided into four classes. The most stringent requirements are for toddlers and
       babies. The certification must be renewed once a year.
                                                                       Supplier Ethical Data Exchange (SEDEX):
                                                                       Sedex is a not for profit membership organisation dedicated to driving
                                                                       improvements in responsible and ethical business practices in global sup-
               Organic Content Standard 100 (OCS 100):
                                                                       ply chains. Its core product is an online database, which allows members
                                                                       to store, share and report information on four key areas: labour standards,
               The organic content standard certification, which is directly fixed on clothing,
               is awarded by the charitable organisation named Textil Exchange. This   health and safety, environment and business ethics. On the platform you can find information
                                                            about ethical and responsible practices based on the following codices: ILO convention, ETI
               certification is replacing the OE 100 Standard. Depending on the amount
                                                            Basis Codex, SA8000, ISO 14001 and further specific sectoral codes of conduct. On the
               of biological material, different logos are used (OCS 100: 95-100% kbA/
               kbt fibres; OCS Blended: 5-94% kbA/kbt fibres). Through this verification,  provided platform suppliers can enter their ethical information and choose to share it with
                                                            multiple customers on Sedex. For purchasers Sedex offers an electronic system for collecting
               contamination should be avoided and the use of organic natural fibers is
               clearly documented. All companies along the supply chain have to follow this  and analyzing information on ethical and responsible business practices in their supply chain.
                                                            A variety of reporting tools are enabling buyers to keep track of their suppliers’ performance
               standard.
                                                            and they also have access to an advanced risk assessment tool. Any company can be part of
                                                            this organization, but all registered members have to make sure to provide correct and honest
                                                            information. However, the stated data is not audited by Sedex.
       TEXTILE ASSOCIATIONS/INITIATIVES
                    Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI):      Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP):
                    This corporate initiative was founded in 2003 by the Foreign Trade  WRAP was founded in 2000 by an US garment trading organisation.
       Association. Companies of all sectors and regions can use their code of conduct and imple-  WRAP is an independent, objective, non-profit team of global social
       mentation system. However, there is no identification on the goods. The Code of Conduct  compliance experts dedicated to promoting safe, lawful, humane and
       covers the following 11 topics: freedom of assembly and collective bargaining, fair wages,  ethical manufacturing around the world through certification and education. Only specific
       health and safety, protection of young employees, forced labour, ethical conduct, discrimi-  production sites can be certificated, no brands or companies. Therefore the label is not di-
       nation, working time, no critical employment, environmental protection and child labour.  rectly fixed on the clothes. WRAP is adherent to the following 12 principles: compliance with
       It is based on the ILO conventions and declarations, UN guidelines and OECD guidelines.  local laws, prohibition of forced labour, prohibition of child labour, prohibition of harassment
       Companies commit to the BSCI by signing the Code of Conduct. The auditing procedures take   or abuse, compensation and benefits, hours of work, prohibition of discrimination, health and
       place every 3 years and are proven by an external testing company.  safety, freedom of association, environment, customs compliance and security. Depending on
                                                            the fulfilment of the principles the factories are rated with gold, silver or platin certifications.
                                                            WRAP audits are primarily carried out by accredited monitoring partners. They are analysing
                                                            the self-evaluation, created by the audited factories. Based on that report WRAP, is deciding
                                                            if the factory can be certificated. Additionally, all certified facilities, regardless of certification
                  Fair Labor Association (FLA):             level, are also subject to randomized, unannounced post-certification audits, which can occur
                                                            at any time.
                  The Fair Labor Association which was founded in 1999 believes that
                  all goods should be produced fairly and ethically. FLA brings together
                  universities, civil society organizations (CSOs) and companies to find
       sustainable solutions to systemic labor issues. All companies, that are part of the FLA are
       committing themselves to the FLA Code of Conduct, built on the ILO core labour standards.
       The FLA code of conduct contains regulations of working conditions, working hours, abuse,
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